Street & neighbourhood · Osaka
Shinsekai retro
新世界
Shinsekai, 'New World', grew up around Tsutenkaku Tower after the 1903 National Industrial Exposition was held here. Today it is Osaka at its most retro: huge painted signs, a giant pufferfish lantern, neon, and rows of kushikatsu counters.
Come hungry and without a plan. Walk up to Tsutenkaku, rub the feet of the Billiken figure for luck, then drift down Janjan Yokocho, a narrow arcade of skewer bars, doteyaki stalls and old go and shogi clubs. It is loud and cheerful, especially at night.
What to see and do
The tower at the heart of the district, with an observation deck and theatres underneath.
A covered lane of about 50 shops, including kushikatsu bars and go and shogi clubs.
Deep-fried skewers dipped once in shared sauce; no double-dipping.
The theatre under Tsutenkaku hosts enka singers on Mondays and manzai comedy and rakugo storytelling at weekends.
Good to know
- Never double-dip your skewer in the shared sauce pot; use the cabbage to scoop more.
- Arrive from Dobutsuen-mae (east exit) to walk through Janjan Yokocho first, or from Ebisucho to go straight to Tsutenkaku.
More art nearby
Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts
Opened in 1936 inside Tennoji Park. Japanese and Chinese art in a landmark east-meets-west building.
Shitennoji
Founded in 593. Gate, pagoda and main hall stand in one straight line, a layout named after this temple.
Abeno Harukas Art Museum
An art museum on the 16th floor of one of Japan’s tallest buildings, with changing exhibitions.
KENPEI · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia CommonsIsshin-ji
Buddha statues made from the ashes of devotees, and a modern gate guarded by bronze warriors. A short walk from Tsutenkaku.