February is the coldest stretch of the year, but it's usually dry and sunny, and by the end of the month the first plum blossoms bring a soft pink to shrine gardens. Kyoto's famous spots are the emptiest they will be all year.
It's ideal for travellers on a budget, photographers who want temples without the crowds, and anyone who loves sake, since the breweries are in full swing. The trade-off is simply the cold, especially early in the morning and in unheated temple halls.
Festivals and big moments

KyotoEarly February to mid-March
Plum blossoms
Kitano Tenmangu shrine
About 1,500 plum trees flower at a shrine to the god of learning, weeks before the cherry blossoms. The plum festival, with an outdoor tea ceremony, is on 25 February.
Getting there · About 35 min by bus from Kyoto Station
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KansaiAround 3 February
Setsubun, throwing beans at demons
Temples and shrines across Kansai
On the day before spring in the old calendar, people throw roasted beans to chase out bad luck, shouting “demons out, luck in”. Many temples hold lively bean-throwing events.
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KansaiAll month
The quietest month
Temples without queues and the lowest prices of the year. Cold, but rarely snowy in the cities.
More to do this month
1Walk the Fushimi sake districtWillow-lined canals, old brewery storehouses and tasting rooms, a short walk from Fushimi Inari.
Kyoto Fushimi, around Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum
2Catch Kyoto's winter special openingsEach winter Kyoto opens temple halls, gardens and art that are usually closed to the public, for a limited time only.
Kyoto Temples across Kyoto (Kyoto Winter Special Opening)
3See Nara lit up at nightIn recent years Nara Park's temples and shrines have been lit with colored lights for a winter light-up in February.
Nara Nara Park, around Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha
4Browse the Valentine's chocolate fairsDepartment stores fill whole floors with chocolate from Japanese and European makers ahead of 14 February. It's fun even if you're only tasting.
Osaka Hankyu Umeda and other Umeda department stores
5Crab and hot springs at KinosakiA classic winter trip: stroll between seven public baths in a yukata, then have a snow crab dinner. It's about 2.5 hours from Osaka by train.
Kansai Kinosaki Onsen, northern Hyogo
Eat this month
Freshly pressed sakeWinter is brewing season. The Fushimi district in Kyoto and the Nada district in Kobe sell new-season sake you won't find later in the year.
Ehomaki sushi rollAround Setsubun (3 February), people in Osaka eat a whole uncut sushi roll facing the year's lucky direction, in silence, for good fortune.
Kasujiru (sake-lees soup)A warming miso-style soup made with sake lees, common in Kansai homes and breweries in the depths of winter.
Good to know
- This is usually the best value time for flights and stays, so it's a great month to book a longer trip.
- Many older temple halls and ryokan corridors are unheated. Bring layers and warm socks.
- Check which plum gardens are blooming before you go. Timing varies year to year, usually mid-February to early March.