July is Kansai's festival month. Lanterns, drums and yukata fill the streets, and the rainy season usually ends around mid-July, giving way to blue skies, cicadas and real heat. Evenings by the river or in the mountains are the best part of the day.
It's great for festival lovers, night owls and families on summer break. The honest trade-offs: heat and humidity are intense in the middle of the day, festival days are extremely crowded, and school holidays start around the 20th.
Festivals and big moments

KyotoAll July; parades 17 and 24 July
Gion Matsuri and its giant floats
Central Kyoto
Kyoto’s biggest festival lasts all of July. On 17 and 24 July, wooden floats up to 25 m tall are pulled through the streets by hand.
Getting there · Around Shijo-Karasuma, central Kyoto
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Osaka24–25 July
Tenjin Matsuri, boats and fireworks
Osaka Tenmangu shrine and the Okawa river
One of Japan’s three great festivals. On the evening of 25 July, about 100 boats sail the river under fireworks.
Getting there · Near Minami-morimachi Station, central Osaka
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Kansai
Hot and humid
Plan outdoor sights for the morning and evening, and rest in the afternoon.
More to do this month
1Dine above the stream in KibuneRestaurants in this mountain village set tables over a rushing stream, often several degrees cooler than central Kyoto. Reservations are essential.
Kyoto Kibune, north Kyoto
2Watch cormorant fishingIn the evenings, boatmen use trained cormorants to catch fish by firelight. Watch from a viewing boat.
Kyoto Arashiyama (Oi river) and Uji river
3Beer gardens on the rooftopsDepartment stores and hotels open rooftop beer gardens with city views on summer evenings.
Osaka Umeda department stores and hotels
4Cool your feet at Shimogamo ShrineDuring the Mitarashi Festival in late July, visitors wade through a cold spring stream at the shrine and light a candle for good health.
Kyoto Shimogamo Shrine
5Beach day in Kobe or ShirahamaSuma beach is a train ride from Kobe. For white sand, Shirahama in Wakayama is a classic summer getaway.
Kansai Suma Beach, Kobe; Shirahama, Wakayama
Eat this month
Hamo (pike conger)July is peak hamo season, so much so that Gion Matsuri is sometimes called the 'hamo festival'. Try it blanched with plum sauce or in hot pot.
Kakigori (shaved ice)Fluffy shaved ice with matcha syrup and sweet beans in Uji, or fruit syrups in Osaka. It's the best way to beat the heat.
Kamo nasu (Kyoto eggplant)Round Kyoto eggplant is in season, best as dengaku, grilled with sweet miso.
Good to know
- Do outdoor sightseeing early morning and after 5pm. Midday is for museums, lunch and air-conditioned rest.
- On big festival days, book restaurants and stays well ahead and expect packed trains. Plan your route home in advance.
- Watch for heatstroke warnings: drink water and take salt candies or sports drinks, which are sold everywhere.